Pam George June 15, 2022 Food, Headlines
Among the many surprises at Bardea Steak is the way meals are served, such as a server cooking unseasoned squares of Wagyu tableside. Photo by Pam George.
We fully intended to get a steak. After all, that’s what carnivores normally do when visiting a steakhouse.
But once we entered Bardea Steak’s sleek space, we succumbed to the allure of the unexpected.
And there’s much that’s surprising about the new Market Street restaurant in the heart of downtown Wilmington.
The steakhouse quietly opened this week with nary a phone number on the website. (Tip: use Open Table.)
We snagged a 6:45 p.m. reservation on a Tuesday and a parking spot near the newcomer’s sister restaurant, Bardea Food & Drink. We strolled by alfresco diners tucking into the Italian cuisine, and made our way to Bardea Steak.
Seasoned restaurateur Scott Stein and chef Antimo DiMeo separated their two businesses with a cosmopolitan courtyard divided into conversation sections with coffee table fire pits, plantings and fairy lights.
In the future, guests dining outside can enjoy selections from each restaurant; the point-of-sale system will send the information to the respective kitchens.
But let’s talk about the inside of Bardea Steak. The owners have made do while awaiting furniture shipments, but the attention to detail still shines.
Votive candles softly pulse under translucent domes, the gleaming cutlery is arranged on a rest, and napkins are folded into triangular packages. A statue of a bull, created by a Philadelphia artist, calmly gazes at the mixture of booths and tables.
The energy is an integral part of the ambiance, from the rolling sound of the flames in the open kitchen to the light laughter at the bar to the tableside preparations that turn strangers at neighboring tables into friends.
“What was that!” “What did you have?” “How was it?”
Veteran server Chris Unruh — wearing a crisp white shirt, knotted tie and mustard-colored apron — is the “meat sommelier.”
He’s on hand to explain the steak side of the menu, which includes a page with information on the breeds and another on the cuts — but no prices. (He can supply that as well.)
The approach provides diners with an education — Meat 101 — which is either appreciated or annoying, depending on your interest level.
Some people just want to see the cut and the price tag.
But Bardea Steak isn’t that type of steakhouse.
Instead, the James Beard semifinalists are creating an experience that includes finding the breed and cut that will please your individual palate and pocketbook.
So, why didn’t we order a steak? Simply put, the rest of the menu was too tempting to bypass.
Few steakhouses extend red meat options to kangaroo, elk, bison, ostrich and beef heart (empanada).
These meats aren’t on the menu for the fun factor. DiMeo demonstrates that there is more to the animal kingdom than mass-produced cattle. (All the meat comes from small farms.)
He’s also showing his guests that all parts of an animal have merit and using them smartly defines sustainability.
Known best for Italian cuisine, the James Beard-nominated chef lets his imagination travel the globe at Bardea Steak.
For example, we ordered plantain tamale with oxtail barbacoa delivered in a small white steamer with red and green salsa.
Once the tidy packets hit the plate, the steamer is whisked away.
It was not the only show that night — or ethnically inspired cuisine.
Yakiniku features unseasoned squares of Wagyu cooked tableside on a hibachi decorated with Japanese characters. Seasonings include salt — use with caution — and harrisa ssamjang, a spicy Korean barbecue sauce.
Every presentation is beyond pretty.
For instance, tender sweet dates en nogada (with walnuts) are studded with pomegranate seeds and served with crispy chicken skin “chips.”
Rivers stones and tufts of green moss turned clever turducken croquettes into a work of art. (Just don’t pop the rock into your mouth.)
Speaking of art, a rye cracker resembling the silhouette of a bull’s head covers Wagyu beef cheek with uni and remoulade. Under DiMeo’s deft touch, it tastes like an elevated Reuben.
The beef cheek is under a “raw” section with items that aren’t all raw, so don’t shrink when you see lobster or shrimp.
There’s also a menu category for skewers, and we had venison rubbed with chili and coffee with oyster mushrooms and a tamarind-sweetened sauce. The B at the end of the skewer is a nice touch.
Of course, there is no shortage of exacting accoutrements, which extend to the desserts.
If you watch any baking show, you’ll appreciate the pastry chef’s efforts, including a snowy pavlova and aubergine-colored macarons — a happy departure from Day-Glo varieties.
We need to go back if only to order a steak. Granted, that might be difficult given the other menu options that intrigued me.
But there’s another reason to return.
Wilmington is a city, which means of course means it’s urban. But it’s not always as urbane as our metropolitan neighbors.
Bardea, however, is a big city concept, and it’s nice to have a slice of the Big Apple without boarding a train.
Gov. John Carney (D) on Thursday introduced his proposed FY 2023 operating budget/Stacey Hofmann Gov. John Carney’s $4.99 billion proposed budget for 2023 includes raises for all state employees, increased opportunity funding for schools in low-income areas, continued investment in clean water and economic development initiatives and funding for the construction of three new schools and two courthouses. What the proposal doesn’t include are direct tax cuts for businesses and individuals despite the state raking in more cash than at any point in memory. House and Senate Republicans are expected to give their reaction to the budget proposal at 3:45 p.m. Thursday. Despite growing nearly 5% over the current spending plan, the FY 2023 budget fully funds the state’s rainy day fund and sets aside $15.2 million for the budget stabilization fund, bringing it to a total of $302.5 million. The state could tap into those funds in case of an economic downturn. The governor also proposed a $56.9 million grant-in-aid bill to support nonprofit organizations and a $1.2 billion Bond Bill, which pays for transportation, capital projects and state infrastructure. That’s slightly less than last year’s $1.35 billion package, which was the largest in the state’s history. In proposing the largest budget in state history, Carney hopes to strengthen the economy, expand opportunities for Delawareans, support families and develop the workforce. He noted that while the state made it through the worst of the COVID-19 pandemic without cutting services, laying off employees, or raising taxes, it’s more important now than ever to responsibly manage the budget. The pandemic, for what it’s worth, was a boon to the state budget. Delaware has received unprecedented federal investment through the CARES Act and American Rescue Plan Act, and more recently the Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act, commonly referred to as the Bipartisan Infrastructure Bill. The state has also seen record real estate transfer tax payments during the last two years and higher than expected corporate and personal income tax revenues. “The Real estate transfer tax has grown 30% a year for each of the last two years,” said Finance Secretary Rick Geisenberger during a Wednesday press briefing to detail the budget. “Normally it grows about 7.5% during good times; over the last ten years that’s been the average, taking out the effects of the rate increase that went into effect a few years ago.” Among the investments and commitments made possible through federal funds, Carney said, is $229 million toward the unemployment trust fund. “You could also call that a tax cut for small businesses,” Carney said Wednesday during a press briefing to detail the budget. “But for that replenishment, their unemployment insurance taxes would have to go up.” All of the funds from the CARES Act have been distributed. Among those allocations were $193 million in relief for small businesses, $196 million for COVID-19 testing and contact tracing programs and $140 million for child care assistance. From the American Rescue Plan Act, Delaware received $355 million for statewide technology upgrades, $135 million for housing development and emergency housing, $121 million for health care facilities, $107 million for colleges and universities, $100 million for pandemic response and mitigation, $50 million for workforce development and $112.5 million for nonprofit organizations. The infrastructure bill gives Delaware $1.2 billion in federal highway funds, $355 million for clean water initiatives, $225 million for bridge replacements and repairs, $220 million for public transit improvements and $100 million for broadband infrastructure. Carney’s proposed budget would exempt 2021 unemployment insurance benefits from Delawareans’ personal income taxes — a move that is expected to save those individuals $25.2 million over 2 years. The proposal would also double the volunteer firefighter tax credit leaving $1.8 million in those taxpayers’ pockets, extend military pension exclusions to attract highly-skilled young military retirees at an expense to the state of $1.5 million, and promote college savings and “ABLE” Plan savings to the tune of $667,000. Contributing employers will also continue to be protected from COVID-related unemployment claim costs, a move that is expected to save them $11.4 million in direct costs and from premium increases that would otherwise follow the spike in claims. Of the $60 million proposed for economic development, Carney hopes to invest $30 million in a strategic fund, $10 million in site readiness, $10 million in graduation lab space and $10 million in a transportation infrastructure fund. The proposal also includes $404.7 million for environmental initiatives, including $30 million for agricultural preservation and open space, $7.5 million for shoreline and waterway resiliency and $367.2 million for clean water. It also includes across-the-board pay raises for state employees. “First, we wanted to make sure that people working full time were not getting a wage that put them below the poverty line,” Carney said Wednesday. “And we had successfully done that. Then we looked at that $15 an hour minimum wage. We’re in line with the implementation of that. This budget, I don’t think it gets us all the way there — but pretty close.” “It is designed to make us more competitive because we have lots of vacancies we have a lot of people are eligible for retirement,” he continued. “We’re having the same challenge that every business in our state is. So the answer is yes, there are pay increases in this budget to try to address those competitive needs and we are moving to fulfill the $15 an hour minimum wage.” The proposal includes a weighted pay raise system that could give state employees between a 2% and 9% pay increase, with the lowest-paid employees receiving the highest increases as a percentage of their pay. That would likely mean more significant raises than the traditional 2% or $1,000 increase. Cerron Cade, director of the Office of Management and Budget, said employees on the lowest end of the pay scale will be the last ones to make it to $15 per hour. The employees at that end of the pay spectrum are predominantly temporary employees and paraprofessionals in public schools. […]
Photo courtesy of Delaware Department of Agriculture. Delaware will spend $2 million in federal COVID-19 relief funds to establish a seed fund aimed at stabilizing and strengthening small and mid-sized farmers and local food supply chain operations. The First State Integrated Food System Program, announced Thursday by Gov. John Carney, will be paid for using funds the state received from the American Rescue Plan Act. Delaware received $925 million from the federal stimulus bill, which is designed to hasten the economic recovery from the pandemic. In a press release announcing the investment, Gov. John Carney said the seed fund will provide a “coordinated approach” to improving local access to affordable and nutritious Delaware-produced foods while supporting Delaware farmers. “We know the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted small-scale food businesses and Delaware families’ access to food,” Carney said. “That’s why the Council on Farm and Food Policy will work with partners to develop and administer a diverse portfolio of grants and loans to improve the availability and accessibility of local produce, animal protein, value-added products, and other foods, promoting overall economic growth here in Delaware.” The First State Integrated Food System Program focuses on three main channels in the food supply chain, including: Production: small and mid-size farmers. Processing and distribution: commercial kitchens, processing facilities, storage/hub facilities, incubators. Retail/consumer outlets: convenience stores, groceries/markets, restaurants, farmers’ markets, food trucks, food kiosks, and mobile markets. Michael Scuse, Delaware’s agriculture secretary, said the seed fund will allow the state to make a “strategic investment” in how families access food in their communities, all while bolstering the local food supply chain. “Neighboring states, like Maryland and New Jersey, have reaped the benefits of food financing programs,” Scuse said. “The First State Integrated Food System Program will make similar opportunities available to bolster Delaware’s capacity. These efforts will go a long way in improving local access to local food.” Through this program and others, the Delaware Council on Farm and Food Policy hopes to facilitate and support a food system where: Local farmers can access viable markets. All Delawareans can access resources needed to circumvent challenges associated with securing nutritious and local food options. Vulnerabilities within Delaware communities can be diminished. The statement announcing the fund indicated that it is still in the development stage, noting that all American Rescue Plan Act funds related to the program will be dispersed by Dec. 2024.
Photo/Kristina Paukshtite, Pexels The bill to create a paid family and medical leave program in Delaware passed in the House of Representatives Thursday by a margin of 29 to 11. Three Republicans, Reps. Mike Smith, R-Pike Creek, Kevin Hensley, R-Odessa, and Mike Ramone, R-Hockessin, voted in favor of the legislation. Because the House voted to add an amendment, the bill was sent back to the Senate for a final vote, which it quickly received. It will now go before Gov. John Carney, who is expected to sign it into law. “This is a historic day for Delaware and a watershed moment for working families throughout the First State,” said Sen. Sarah McBride, the bill’s sponsor. “Thousands of families throughout our state are now one signature away from having the security and peace of mind that comes from knowing they will be able to keep food on the table and a roof over their heads even as they face some of the most common challenges that we all face as human beings.” The Healthy Delaware Families Act will create a statewide insurance program to provide up to 80% of wages for eligible Delaware workers for up to 12 weeks per year for parental leave and six weeks over two years for caregiving and medical leave. If signed into law, employer and employee contributions to the program will begin in 2025. The benefits will be available beginning in 2026. The program will be funded through a 0.8% payroll contribution split between the employer and the employee. For example, an employee who makes $1,000 per week would pay $4 per week and so would their employer. “This major step forward would not have been possible without the hard work and persistence of advocates, business leaders willing to come to the table, statewide leaders and a bi-partisan coalition of legislators, and the overwhelming support of Delawareans,” said McBride, D-Wilmington. The House Amendment, introduced by House Speaker Pete Schwartzkopf, D-Rehoboth Beach, exempts businesses that are closed for 30 consecutive days or more per year. That will benefit the many seasonal businesses that operate in Schwartzkopf’s oceanside district. The amendment also requires that before July 1, 2029, the Department of Labor submit a report to the General Assembly and the governor detailing the program’s usage and efficiency, as well as recommendations for improvement. Businesses with fewer than 25 workers will not be required to participate in the medical and family caregiving component of the program, and businesses with fewer than 10 workers will not be required to participate in parental leave, though they may opt-in. Businesses with comparable benefits will be able to opt-out of the program in whole or in part. “Delaware set the example by becoming one of the first states to establish paid parental leave for state employees and teachers,” said Rep. Debra Heffernan, D-Bellefonte, the bill’s lead House sponsor. “Now, Delaware has done the right thing for thousands of private workers and ensured they have access to paid family and medical leave.” House roll call on Senate Substitute 2 for Senate Bill 1: Senate roll call on Senate Substitute 2 for Senate Bill 1:
Many libraries say they are out of the Abbott at-home COVID-19 test kits that they were giving away this week. Delaware’s new COVID-19 cases continue to climb, with an average of 147 new cases on Thursday, That’s up from 20 new cases a day on June 20, the low point before the Delta variant began to prey on the unvaccinated and caused the number to rise again. Delaware’s Division of Public Health issues a weekly report of new cases, determined by a seven-day average. On June 30, the state said there was an average of 90 new cases a day. That same day, the state said there were 32 people hospitalized. On Friday, it said there were 71, with eight in critical condition. Because of the increasing numbers, Gov. John Carney on Tuesday issued new guidelines, saying the unvaccinated should be tested once a week to try to identify and stop the spread of the virus. The state also said those who are not vaccinated should be tested five to seven days after being exposed to someone with COVID-19 and that they should isolate at home immediately if they are unvaccinated and develop symptoms of COVID-19, as well as quarantine immediately at home if exposed to the virus. The Centers for Disease Control recommends fully vaccinated people get tested three to five days after being exposed to someone with COVID. Fully vaccinated individuals do not need to quarantine after exposure, the state said. Delaware has seen 112,298 positive cases of COVID-19 reported since March 11, 2020. The state also has said 1,833 Delawareans have died. No new deaths were reported this week. At the same time, the centers for Disease Control and Prevention says 73.2% of Delawareans ages 18+ have received at least one dose of the vaccine. Among Delawareans 12+, 534,132 have received at least one dose of the COVID-19 vaccine, and 474,050 Delawareans are fully vaccinated. As of Friday morning, 1,067,747 doses of the vaccine have been administered. The state had announced Tuesday that most Delaware libraries would have take-home COVID-19 rapid antigen test kits that any resident could ask for. The Abbott BinaxNOW tests include two tests that give results in as little as 15 minutes. A random survey Friday of upstate and downstate libraries found that most are out of the kits. Testing is available around the state at drug stores, health centers and more. Go here to look for a place to be tested. Vaccines are widely available at pharmacies and other places. Check here for locations. The Public Health COVID vaccine mobile units, with Pfizer and Johnson & Johnson vaccines, will be out around the state at these places: Monday: North Dover Elementary, Dover, 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.; Beaver Brook Shopping Center, New Castle, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. Tuesday: First Responder Night, Milford, 5 p.m. – 8 p.m. Wednesday: Kirkwood Park, Wilmington, 3:30 p.m. – 7 p.m. Thursday: Laurel Senior Center, Laurel, 10 a.m. – noon; Save A Lot, Seaford, 1 p.m. – 3 p.m. Friday: Adams Four Shopping Center, Wilmington, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m. Saturday: Edna C. Dickey Park, Newark, 10 p.m. – 2 p.m.
Photo by Nick Halliday The Appoquinimink Jaguars scored 6 points at the free-throw line in the final two minutes of regulation, forced a turnover to tie the game in the 1st overtime, then outscored Smyrna 16-11 in double OT for a 64-59 win Thursday night in boys top ten basketball. The 6th ranked Jags gained a late 1st quarter lead at 8-6, but would not lead again until the final overtime period, as Smyrna led for most of the game. Smyrna took a 9-8 lead after the 1st quarter, and extended their advantage to 23-14 with :21 left in the half on a three point shot by Devin Demoe. Appo closed the gap to seven as Christian Barksdale made a basket with :05 left for a halftime score of 23-16 in favor of Smyrna. The Jags opened the second half on a 6-0 run, slicing into that 7-point deficit to a single point on five occasions and tied the game twice in the 3rd quarter using an aggressive back court press. With 1:00 left in the quarter, Majesti Carter made a short jumper & fifteen seconds later, Demoe converted the traditional 3-point play to increase Smyrna’s lead to 39-33 with 8:00 left in regulation. The Eagles grabbed a 10-point advantage early in the 4th quarter on baskets by Carter and Kevin Woodruff, but the Jags dialed up the back court pressure again, scoring 12 of the next 14 points (the final 6 at the foul line) to tie the game and send it into overtime. Eric Mathenge and Tommy Vaughn Jr combined for 8 of those 12 points in the quarter. In the 1st overtime, Smyrna scored on a foul shot by Carter and 2 more by Demoe to gain a 48-45 lead with 2:08 left, but the Jags answered with a free throw by Vaughn and a steal by Mathenge, who made the layup to tie the game at 48 all with :38 to go. The Eagles had two chances to get the win but came up a little short on both jumpers and the game went into a second OT. Barksdale gave Appo its first lead since the opening quarter as he laid in a shot and was fouled. His free throw put the Jags up 51-48. Smyrna answered with 2 foul shots from Carter to make it 51-50, then Appo’s pressure again forced key Smyrna turnovers. In the next :90 seconds, Barksdale, Young and Nate Burlew accounted for 7 straight points to give the Jags a 58-50 lead at the 2:00 mark. Undaunted, Demoe nailed a deep jumper and converted a free throw to cut that lead to 58-54 with 1:33 to go. Carter then forced a turnover and was fouled. He made both shots and it was a 2-point Appo lead with 77 seconds left. In the end, that defensive pressure from the Jags proved too much down the stretch. After 2 free throws from Burlew made it a two-possession game, Smyrna couldn’t convert and was forced to foul, putting the Jags at the line where they made 4-of-6 to close out the game. Appo improves to 10-3 with the win, while Smyrna falls to 7-6. The Jags received balanced scoring, led by Barksdale (15), Mathenge (14), Vaughn Jr (13) and Burlew (10). Smyrna received a season-high 21 points from Demoe and Carter led the way with 22. The Eagles played without leading scorer Lish Gregory.
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